Travelling the east coast is almost nothing without covering this part of Queensland. The road trip from Brisbane to Cairns goes from the south of Queensland to the very north. And covers all of the most popular spots along the way.
I’ve done this road trip from Brisbane to Cairns three times over different times of the year, twice in winter and the last in early summer. From these journeys I’ve had the time to experience the best of this road trip. I’m sharing this all as a package road trip from Brisbane to Cairns and all there is to see in between.
This road trip guide contains estimated drive times and recommendations for stops, free campsites or low-budget campsites and what to see where. My road trip guides focus on enjoying the trip rather than racing through. In each section I’ve included the recommended days to stay in certain areas.
This road trip guide also has an optional turn off for Carnarvon National Park from Rockhampton. I recommend staying inland and heading north towards Mackay before going back to the coast after this.
As for the free and low budget campground recommendations, all have bathrooms and are good for non-self-contained campers. This includes backpackers in vans, rooftop tents or other sorts.
Not interested in camping? Click the search box below to find the best deals on accommodation without dealing with camping.
Table of Contents
Road Trip: Brisbane to Cairns, Queensland
Total drive time: 29 hours
Minimum recommended days: 15 – 22 days
Day 1: Brisbane to Noosa Heads, Queensland
Drive Time: One hour 50 minutes
Brisbane is known for being more of a business city than catering towards tourists. That doesn’t mean there isn’t anything to do, though. Southbank is the place to go with restaurants everywhere, a free outdoor pool, parks and walks along the water. There’s also a few free ferries to visit other parts of the town and the museum and art gallery. And it’s all within walking distance.
An optional first stop after Brisbane is heading a bit south to Springbrook National Park for glorious outdoor adventures. I include this park in the tail end of the Sydney to Brisbane trip, so I won’t go in-depths on it here.
On the way north, think about stopping in at the interestingly shaped Glass House Mountains. The next natural stop from Brisbane is Noosa Heads, just north of the city.
But first, a little bit about Noosa and its surrounding area. It’s a popular surfing spot and carries similar vibes to Byron Bay, but with less hippies and more yuppies. Noosa tries to keep it that way, with no budget or free campgrounds close by. Noosa Shire has a specific law preventing people from sleeping in vehicles. And, all of the public areas are patrolled early in morning handing out fines to those testing this law.
Don’t let this ward you off though, Noosa is a beautiful place to stay and visit. There’s an array of fine dining restaurants, bars and cafes. For those looking for more fun, check out Land & Sea Noosa Brewing Company. This craft brewery and distillery has incredible food and often hosts games at night.
Noosa is definitely similar to Byron with its incredible beaches. They’re great for swimming and surfing alike depending on the location. There is life saving services at Noosa’s main beach.
And don’t miss out on taking a walk through Noosa National Park. Wild koalas are seen along the path near the toilets by Tea Tree Bay. I didn’t see any while there, and the tourist information centre had no idea either, so I’d stick to looking in the trees for them.
Outside of Noosa is one of Australia’s best outdoor markets, the Original Eumundi Markets. It takes place on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 8am – 2pm. It has nearly everything from handmade goods, international foods, produce and gifts of all sorts.
Going both before the pandemic and after, there’s clear differences. But, there’s also differences in seasons. During the warmer and busier months there’s more stands in the markets.
If you’re not in the area on Wednesday or Saturday, check out the local Noosa Farmers market on Sunday, which has some similar stalls. Next on this road trip guide from Brisbane to Cairns is heading towards the beach town of Rainbow Beach.
Free Campgrounds
There isn’t any free campgrounds within Noosa, but there is one outside at Belli Creek Park Campground. It’s an interesting place, camping in tents and vehicles is allowed. And, because it’s a long and narrow campsite, it doesn’t attract as many grey nomads because of this accessibility. There’s a 25 hour limit at this spot.
A bit further away there’s also Carters Ridge RV Camp which is also free. It has a 72 hour limit.
Day 2: Noosa Heads to Rainbow Beach, Queensland
Drive Time: One hour and 40 minutes
If you haven’t had a beach overload at Noosa, head straight to Rainbow Beach next. This is a place I didn’t go the first time up the east coast and I’m so glad I did stop in later. The drive out to Rainbow Beach itself is stunning, heading through the Great Sandy National Park.
What makes Rainbow Beach special is its southern sand wall, which lands as a backdrop to the beach. It’s a great place to fly a kite on a sunny day or go for a swim, especially when the lifesaving services are out.
The swimming isn’t that impressive because the water stays shallow and the waves can be strong. It’s still nice for a dip though. At Rainbow Beach, there’s also showers, toilet and picnic facilities on the beach.
For those with 4WD, driving on Rainbow Beach and throughout the neighbouring Great Sandy National Park is allowed.
There’s not much going on in the town itself, though it’s a popular spot to book Fraser Island tours or ferries departing from Inskip. There’s also a few backpacker hostels, campgrounds and restaurants. See below for free campground options in the area.
Free Campgrounds
There’s loads of free campgrounds around Rainbow Beach, but they’re not all accessible or have toilets. Most are only for 4WD and within national parks and requires small fees.
For those like me with only 2WD, there’s more free campsites available closer to Gympie. That’s also a good place to stock up on groceries. For free campgrounds, check out these below:
- Ross Creek Store (by donation)
- Six Mile Creek Rest Area
- Chatsworth Rest Area
- Gunalda Rest Area
- Theebine Hotel
- Miva Rest Area – Dickabram Bridge
Day 3: Rainbow Beach to Hervey Bay, Queensland
Drive time: One hour and a half
Hervey Bay is one of those towns that thrives in tourism along its shore. That includes tours of wildlife and K’gari (Fraser Island) along with accommodation.
If you have the budget I recommend doing some of these tours. It’s what makes the road trip from Brisbane to Cairns more special and exciting.
Whale tours are mostly a single day or a few hours whereas the K’gari tours are at least a full day or two. Stay here a few days for tours
Personally, going to K’gari (Fraser Island) was one of my favourite places I’ve been to in Australia. Swimming in Lake Mackenzie is the most clear water. And, because it’s a lake it feels more safe than worrying about sharks in the ocean.
I did a tour with Cool Dingo, which isn’t currently operating during the COVID-19 pandemic. If it ever starts again, it’s a great option for those without their own 4WD.
Otherwise, if it’s the right time of year to do a whale tour, Hervey Bay is one of the best places to do it. I swam with Humpback Whales as part of a research project with the Pacific Whale Foundation. There’s lots of other tours, but choosing a non-for-profit makes a difference for the sea life and the environment.
For food and good coffee, stop in at Eat At Dan & Steph’s. It’s a tiny yet fantastic restaurant serving up home cooked-style meals with unique flare. Such as the Brisket + Sweet Potato + Mac + Cheese + which is a, 12 hour smoked beef brisket, macaroni and a cheesy sweet potato sauce.
Also in the area of Hervey Bay, just south is Maryborough. All Mary Poppins fans should stop in here as it’s where the writer of those childhood stories is from. The town’s central business district is decorated with Mary Poppins statues, and the crosswalks’ green and red light has a woman with an umbrella up or down for walking and stopping cues.
Next on this road trip from Brisbane is Cairns is what to expect in the famous beverage company town of Bundaberg.
Free and Low Budget Campgrounds
Because of the touristy quality of Hervey Bay, free campsites are a no-go. There is however a terrific rest area that’s legal to camp at in Tiaro (pronounced Taro). The camp is located at the Tiaro Memorial Park. It even has a free hot shower to rinse off in. Stop there either before or after heading to Hervey Bay.
As for low budget campgrounds in Hervey Bay, check out Torquay Beachfront Tourist Park which has special ‘backpacker’ rate of A$15 per site during the shoulder seasons. Call ahead to confirm when the backpacker rate is on.
Day 4: Hervey Bay to Bundaberg, Queensland
Drive Time: One hour and 20 minutes
There’s a few optional stops along the way, before going to Bundaberg. For those looking for a hike, head a bit inland towards Mount Walsh. The hike itself is enduring and shouldn’t be done on extremely hot days, try do it early in the morning. And, bring lots of water.
Also along the way is a sweet little roadside produce stand just outside of Childers and worth drive off the A1. It’s on the corner of Mamminos Road and Lucketts Road and accepts cash only. The woman running it is usually around to help exchange big bills if necessary. I always find sweet pines and perfect avocados there.
Bundaberg has a few famous beverage companies, Bundaberg Rum and Bundaberg Brewed Drinks. They’re both different businesses and at different locations in the city, or rather out of the city. Due to COVID-19, Bundaberg Rum is only doing tours and doesn’t allow other tastings or seating at their bar to try the drinks.
Bundaberg Brewed Drinks has a self-guided tour and serves tastings of all of the sodas on tap. Then, there’s an option to take home a hand-picked six-pack of brewed drinks.
The city of Bundaberg itself isn’t bustling with many other tourist options. It’s a big farming area and has heaps of backpacker hostels—which are now rather empty—to supply a workforce to said farms. The city itself is quite grey, it’s best to stay the night out of town, closer to Seventeen Seventy and Agnes Water. These are the next towns on this Brisbane to Cairns road trip guide.
Free and Low-budget Campsites
Around Bundaberg there aren’t many free campsites available to backpackers (those with non-self-contained vehicles). The one close to town is for those with caravans only. South of Bundaberg there’s Wallum Reserve Rest Area which should only be for a one-night stay as it’s not super comfortable. There’s also Apple Tree Creek Rest Area further south.
For low-budget campgrounds, check out the Royal Hotel & Caravan Park in Rosedale. It has hot showers and toilet facilities along with a large grassy area for only A$5 a night per person. And it’s on the way to Agnes Water, the next stop on this road trip guide.
Day 5: Bundaberg to Agnes Water, Queensland
Drive Time: One hour and 20 minutes
The area around Agnes Water is one of the last places along this east coast road trip where it’s possible to swim in the ocean. Depending on the right season of course.
Other than surfing, there’s plenty of walks in the area. A quick and easy one is the Paperbark Forest Boardwalk. After this, check out the desserts at Getaway Garden Cafe. They have homemade desserts, including the best cheesecake I’ve had in Australia.
After that, there’s another relaxing walk on the headland of Seventeen Seventy. Head towards Bustard Bay Lookout to get stunning views over the area including the deep blue ocean and rocky shores.
And if you need a spot to have lunch or just relax a bit, visit Endeavour Park. It has everything including picnic tables, barbecues, covered areas and toilets.
Free and Low-Budget Campgrounds
After relaxing around Agnes Water, there’s a few different campground options. Along the A1, Boyne River Rest Area is a free option, but it’s closer to Gladstone than Agnes Water.
Or, with a little bit of organization and preparations, there is a free campground in Agnes Water. Workman’s Beach can be booked online for free and there’s 38 campsites up for grabs. A permit is necessary to access the site and rangers are around often to ensure this.
Day 6: Agnes Water to Rockhampton, Queensland (And the Capricorn Caves)
Drive Time: Two hours and 30 minutes
This part of the road trip from Brisbane to Cairns heads out of the woodsy Agnes Water and back into the regional cities. First through Gladstone, then towards good ol’ Rocky.
Rockhampton is a typical regional city, everything is well spread out and making it necessary to drive almost anywhere. And despite many lanes on main road, rush hour traffic is very real.
Rockhampton has a large and modern aquatic centre, the 2nd World War Memorial Aquatic Centre. It’s a relaxing stop on a hot day before continuing on with this Queensland road trip.
What’s a tad more exciting than Rockhampton, is the tiny tourist attraction just north, the Capricorn Caves. This location has limestone caves of all sorts and tours to suit different needs. While there, I did the Adventurer tour with a few friends.
Free Campgrounds
There’s a rest area along the A1 conveniently located just a few minutes drive from the Capricorn Caves. Although it’s a rest area, it’s a good place to stay for a night, if necessary. It’s at Joan Tierney Park, the Yaamba Rest Area. It’s the only free campground in the Rockhampton area so it does get busy.
Need some accommodation? I know that camping isn’t for everyone, especially with bad weather conditions. Click the link below to find deals on accommodation for this road trip.
(Optional: 5 Day Detour) Rockhampton to Carnarvon National Park, Queensland
Drive Time to Carnarvon National Park: Seven hours and 30 minutes
Carnarvon National Park to Mackay: Nine hours and 30 minutes
After visiting Rockhampton, there’s a few options to continue this road trip. Many people will continue heading north (or south) along the coast. This part of the journey can boring as there’s not a lot to see. A way to spice up the Brisbane to Cairns road trip is by taking a detour.
Carnarvon Gorge is the perfect detour and goes into the outback for less than a week to visit.
This is a paradise in the outback and worth the drive west. Spend about three days to do all of the hikes and see every part of the park. Or, less if that’s all the time you have.
Read about my full guide on Carnarvon National Park for more information. This guide includes the best time of year to visit, hikes and what to do, and accommodation close to the park.
While leaving Carnarvon National Park, a good by-donation campground on the way is Duaringa Rest Area (Mackenzie Park). Remember to leave a donation at the information centre, on the property. This campground has hot showers, a large sink for dishes and green grass in certain areas.
The next part of the journey to Carnarvon National Park varies with views of mines, cattle stations, other national parks and wildlife.
Remember to fuel up whenever possible to avoid running out. Heading south to Carnarvon National Park, the last fuel stop is Roleston.
After spending time in Carnarvon, hiking and experiencing the park, head back north towards straight to Mackay. The drive from Rockhampton to Mackay on the coast doesn’t have many stops.
Check out my guide on Carnarvon National Park to know everything there is to do in the park. It includes hikes, campgrounds, drone regulations and more.
Free Campgrounds
On this section of the road trip from Rockhampton to Carnarvon National Park, then up to Mackay, there’s a decent amount of quality campgrounds. Not all of them are free, but there’s many that are by-donation and have showers available—which is heaven on hot days.
From Rockhampton to Carnarvon, options for free or low-budget campgrounds are:
- Duaringa Rest Area (Mackenzie Park)
- Dingo Shell Roadhouse
- Virgin Rock – Lions Park
And then from Carnarvon north towards Mackay, campground options include:
- Bedford Weir
- Junee Road Rest Area
- Middlemount Hotel Motel
- BP Truck Stop – Moranbah
- Isaac River Rest Area
Day 7: Rockhampton to Mackay, Queensland
Drive Time: Three hours and 45 minutes
Back to the coastal route: Rockhampton onwards there’s no more opportunities to swim safely in the ocean. That’s why most cities will have free public pools. They can also be a good place to take a break from driving and to take a shower.
I didn’t find the journey from Rockhampton to Mackay loaded with opportunities to stop. But alas, there are free campgrounds and servos to take breaks at. Make sure to take plenty of breaks, stay hydrated and switch drivers when possible
This drive includes heading past loads of mines. You won’t always see the mines, but will likely see vehicles and entrances to them.
The mines in the area are why Rockhampton and Mackay have lots of job opportunities in the hospitality industry. Always a good option for backpackers looking for jobs.
Free Campgrounds
If you’re not planning to do this drive in a single day there’s a few different free campgrounds along the drive. This includes Marlborough Roadhouse (Puma Fuel) and Waverley Creek Rest Area.
Once in Mackay, the campgrounds are The Leap Hotel (purchase food or drinks to stay the night and 24 hour max), Kattabul Hotel (also purchase food or drinks to stay the night), or Gargett Rodeo Ground.
Day 8: Mackay to Eungella National Park, Queensland
Drive Time: One hour and 15 minutes
Mackay isn’t a bustling city, but its infrastructure appears otherwise. The city’s CBD is well-organized, and has good facilities such as a public pool and a library. The biggest mall in town is called Caneland, an ode to the local sugar cane economy.
For coffee, there’s a few good options. I love both Woodman’s Axe Espresso, which serves up Axil coffee from Melbourne, and Primal Coffee Roasters which serves and roasts their own beans.
A lot of the tourism that heads towards Mackay tends to go over to Eungella National Park. This is the place to see palytapuses. I’m biased because I’ve seen them each time going to the park. Check out my post on the park, including how to see platyapuses at Eungella National Park.
The park is split up between two separate areas, Finch Hatton Gorge below the hill, and the main section in the highlands. It’s possible to see the entire area in about two days, and it’s helpful to stay a night in the national park at one of the campgrounds. They have limited facilities, but they’re also budget-friendly—see below in campground section for more information.
Check out my complete guide on Eungella National Park for what to do in the park, how to find wildlife, and hikes.
Free and Low-Budget Campgrounds
The obvious spot many people stay on the way out of Mackay, but not yet in Eungella is Gargett Rodeo Grounds. It’s a free campground with grassy space for camping and toilet facilities. During the sugarcane harvesting season, cane trains will be passing by which is fun to see.
For low-budget options, in Eungella National Park, there’s Broken River Bush Camp and Fern Flat Campground. Neither of these sites have cell phone service, but if you’re deciding to stay at the sites last minute I have a tip for you. The information centre in the national park, which happens to be in-between and walking distance from the two sites, has a computer to book the sites.
Enjoying this road trip guide from Brisbane to Cairns? Check out my other guides from Melbourne to Sydney both inland and a costal route. The Great Ocean Road, Melbourne to Echuca and back, and Sydney to Brisbane. These cover the entire east coast of Australia.
Day 9: Eungella National Park to Cape Hillsborough National Park, Queensland
Drive time: One hour and 25 minutes
The next stop of this road trip from Brisbane to Cairns is Cape Hillsborough National Park. It’s known for being the place to see kangaroos and wallabies on the beach on the morning. But man, it has a lot more natural beauty than that—more on the beach wildlife later.
Cape Hillsborough is a relatively small national park. It’s easy to do all of the walks and sightseeing in the national park within a day.
Keep an eye on the tide times and head over to the little island during low tide, as a pathway makes it accessible.
Although Cape Hillsborough is known as the place to see kangaroos and wallabies on the beach in the morning, it’s become more of a tourist attraction. And, it’s not as natural anymore.
Normally, these animals would head to the beach in the morning after low tide to eat seaweed that the tide has left on the shore. But, now people go to the beach to deliberately feed them, and by attracting the wildlife they attract tourists.
Check out my full guide on Cape Hillsborough National Park, I’ve done almost everything in the park and share what it has to offer. This includes hikes, walks, special spots and more!
Free and Low-Budget Campgrounds
There’s two free campground options, between the drive from Eungella National Park to Cape Hillsborough. Both The Leap Hotel and Kattabul Hotel are free to stay at, but the businesses ask that you support them somehow. Such as by purchasing food or drinks. For a completely free option there’s still Gargett Rodeo Grounds, in between.
For low-budget campgrounds, there’s Smalleys Beach inside Cape Hillsborough National Park. The national park cost is A$6.65 per adult per night, which can be booked online.
Day 10: Cape Hillsborough National Park to Airlie Beach, Queensland
Drive Time: One hour and 30 minutes
One of the coolest things in between this Brisbane to Cairns road trip is seeing how the coast, the ocean and its beaches change. Airlie Beach and the Whitsunday Islands region are a perfect example of that.
With the right amount of sunlight, this area is one of the most beautiful shades of blue right next to white sand beaches. If there’s a heaven, it would probably look like the Whitsundays.
There’s a ton of different options for seeing the Whitsunday Islands. The most popular option is signing up for a sailing tour. Check out my guide for everything to know about choosing a Whitsunday Island tour.
Check out my full article on choosing a Whitsunday sailing tour, including how to get the best price, where to book and how to choose.
Otherwise, in the area, check out Conway National Park. There’s a few walks in this park, which see a different view of Airlie Beach. Conway Circuit is a multi-day hike, but a one-day version of this hike will still have great views over the area.
Hike alert: Conway Circuit is a multi-day hike, but there’s also day hikes that can be done. For more information on it all check out this full article.
It’s always nice to just walk around the beach front of Airlie Beach. Even on a rainy days, it’s peaceful. And it’s stunning to see the ocean rotating through shades of blue, according to the sun and cloud coverage.
Next on this road trip guide from Brisbane to Cairns covers leaving Airlie Beach, and ending up in Townsville, right by Magnetic Island.
Free Campgrounds
After visiting the Cape Hillsborough National Park, there is a low-budget campground in the park, see the previous section for more information on this. Or, keep heading north for more options.
For a sweet and unique campground on a local farm, check out Oh Deer Farm Stay. It’s conveniently located just off the A1 highway, and gives you the opportunity to see how a sugar cane farm is works, with farm tours.
A popular free campground stay among travellers is the Bloomsbury BP Servo, which allows free overnight stays. Trucks also stop here so it can be noisy, but it’s good for one night.
Day 11: Airlie Beach to Townsville, Queensland
Drive Time: Three hours and 10 minutes
When it’s time to leave Airlie Beach, meet the next regional city of Townsville. Before then there’s an array of stops to make the drive more exciting. First there’s Bowen and the giant mango statue. Stop by for a picture to add to your cheesy tourist snaps.
If fish and chips are your thing, then Birds Fish Bar will satisfy a craving with local fish. Somehow Bowen is one of those sunny seaside towns with little shade, so be sure to head to a beachside park to hide from the sun.
Next up on the road trip is Home Hill and its very own comfort stop. This blended rest area has everything travellers need in a stop. There’s free showers, a barbecue area, picnic tables, shaded areas and laundry facilities nearby. There also tends to be fruit and veggies for cash right there.
Just north across the Burdekin River is the town of Ayr. If you’re lucky, the local farmers market may be taking place in the Rotary Park, just next to the tourist information centre. This is a great place to buy local jams, honey and produce.
Back on the highway heading north, Townsville is close by. There’s one last place I recommend stopping, and it also makes a good campsite. Alligator Creek—which has no alligators or crocodiles—in Bowling Green Bay National Park, has a relaxing natural swimming area. It might be less busy if you visit in the evening after the locals have left.
Whether you stay the night at Alligator Creek Campground, or keep heading north to Townsville, the next section will include information on Magnetic Island. This is a good place to visit while in the area, and a mini escape from the mainland.
Overall this section of the Brisbane to Cairns road trip is a packed with options. Next is visiting Queensland’s tallest single-drop waterfall, Wallaman Falls in Girringun National Park.
Free and Low-Budget Campgrounds
A great (but sometimes very windy) free campsite out of Airlie Beach is at Lake Proserpine – Peter Faust Dam. This free campsite has hot showers, and incredible amenities for being a free camp. There’s a 72 hour limit, however city worker on the property confirmed if you leave (such as going to town) and return, that 72 hour period starts over again.
Free campgrounds north of Airlie Beach are:
- Guthalungra Rest Area
- Wallace’s Landing – Fishing Spot*
- Plantation Creek Boat Ramp*
- Morris Creek Boat Ramp & Camping*
- Cromarty Creek Boat Ramp Camping*
- BP Service Station Idalia
And finally, for a low-budget option, think about staying at Alligator Creek Campsite. Aside from tons of Hunstmans spiders there, it’s one of my favourite campsites I’ve been to. A plus at this campsite is the swimming hole just a short walk away!
*Be fully warned, these campsites, are close to rivers. Along with being crocodile areas, they’re infested with mosquitoes, midges and other bugs. Midges are tiny bugs that bite and can leave welts on skin. They’re vicious and go through most bug screens. Think twice about staying at these places if you want a peaceful night’s sleep.
Day 12: Townsville to Wallaman Falls, Queensland
Drive Time: Two hours and 20 minutes
There’s a lot to do in between Townsville and Wallaman Falls. It’s good to spend a few days for all of this. But, if you’re in a rush, just skim through this section and pick your favourites.
I’ll start first in Townsville, I recommend going to Magnetic Island for at least one day.
I wasn’t sure about the accommodation options on the island so I just stayed for one day instead of staying overnight. However, if you have the budget, give it a try and spend extra time in this wild and beautiful place.
Magnetic Island is a haven for koalas, and other rare wildlife. Over half of the island is a national park, but the island seems to blend well with the other half. It’s not over touristy, it has a good amount of full-time residents, short-term visitors and other tourists.
The island has a public bus system which takes cash only. Remember to have nearly exact change, or at least small bills to pay your fare. For weather, I recommend heading over to the island on the earliest ferry on a hot day. Get the day hikes and walks done before it gets too hot, then cool off in the water.
It’s possible to swim in the ocean around the island, as long as it’s not summer—that’s when the stingers are bad. Locals or national park rangers can help advise on this. Bring snorkelling gear to check out the coral. Not all of the coral is that bright or colourful, but it’s still nice to see while swimming around.
When you’re ready, head back to the ferry terminal towards Townsville. Make sure to have your accommodation planned as there aren’t a ton of options in the area.
Hike alert: Mount Halifax makes a good (albeit long) day hike or overnight hike, it’s just north of Townsville.
After Townsville another stop, is Paluma National Park and its many swimming areas. I’ve been to both Big Crystal Creek and Little Crystal Creek and they’re both great places to swim. They also both fill up quick on a hot day, so don’t expect to get a lot of peace. Head over early to avoid some of the crowds.
First off with Little Crystal Creek. There’s a few different pools accessible along the creek. The lower bit has the deepest and largest spot for swimming, but there’s plenty of other options. Just remember to look out for rocks, it’s pretty clear anyways.
Big Crystal Creek is more about its natural waterslides. There’s two different sections to get to these rockslides. But, they’re all fun and perfect for any temperature—I’ve been when it was only 25 degrees out.
After splashing around in the water, keep heading north towards Cairns. Before going to Wallaman Falls, it’s worth it to stop into Ingham to do laundry and pick up groceries. The town has big-named grocery stores, plenty of options and it’s the turn off point before the falls.
In the next section I’ll get into what there is to do around Wallaman Falls, and—of course—where this road trip heads to next.
Free and Low-Budget Campgrounds
Because there’s many places to stop along the way from Townsville to Wallaman Falls, I’m listing all the free and low-budget campsites in between the two spots. Check ahead of time to book the national park campsites.
- Saunders Beach
- Bluewater Park
- Toomulla Beach Rest Area
- Mystic Sands Gold and Country Club (A$5 per person, per night)
- Vincent ‘Bushy’ Parker Park
- Big Crystal Creek Campground (NP Fees: A$6.75 per person, per night)
- Jourama Falls Campsite (NP Fees)
- Rollingstone Hotel (by donation)
- Balgal Beach (no tents)
- Wallaman Falls (NP Fees)
Day 13: Wallaman Falls to Innisfail, Queensland
Drive Time: Two hours and 40 minutes
Wallaman Falls is the sort of place that looks fun to get lost in, but actually isn’t. Once I went for a walk by the national park campground and a few hundred metres onto a mysterious walkway I came across a python so long I couldn’t see its end. By long I mean at least four metres. No joke. The worst part, it didn’t move at all. Just stared me down with its tiny eyes while its body sat looped through the bush.
Pythons are hardly dangerous though. What’s actually scary is the amount of salt water crocodiles in the freshwater rivers around Girringun National Park—where Wallaman Falls is located. Or, the deadly rock fish, which similar to jelly fish can sting and kill you in a short time span. With the lack of cell service and roads, it’s unlikely someone would survive.
But, alas, there’s more to Girringun National Park than its possibly deadly bush life. It’s actually a beautiful park, and features Queensland’s highest single-drop waterfall, Wallaman Falls. There’s an easily-accessible viewpoint at the top of the falls. Or if you’re in the mood, head down to pathway to the foot of the falls.
Warning though, it gets humid in this area, get ready to feel sweaty on the way back up the trail. I accidentally kicked a lizard as I went around the corner of the trail back up. I was just really into the hike and the lizard came out of nowhere.
Other walks in the area include multi-day adventures through the bush, but they’re mostly one-way endeavours so it’s not the best for someone travelling alone. And, they’re focused more on the hike, not a lot of views.
After checking out the falls and some of the walks in the area, head back in the direction of the highway. Beware of cow poop on the road and cattle as the public road goes through farmland.
Warning: smashing into too much poop will result in your engine smelling like burnt shit.
Some stops along the way to Innisfail include Mission Beach and Etty Bay. The first is the place to go for free and delicious coconuts from the palms along the beach. Bring something to crack them open—if you will—and try to drink the water and eat the meat, if it’s there.
Etty Bay is a sweet place to see cassowaries, specifically in the evening near the beach and parking lot. Cassowaries are a tad smaller than emus but much more colourful. They can be dangerous, but the ones that frequent Etty Bay are more focused on eating stale chips off the ground than attacking someone. Still good to keep a safe distance though.
Finally, landing in Innisfail is a good middle point before heading to the Atherton Tablelands and then to Cairns later. Check the next day for more information on this.
Free Campgrounds
This plot of free campgrounds lands anywhere from Ingham and Innisfail, don’t get excited though, there aren’t that many. The rest area outside of Innisfail is good for one night but it’s busy and despite the time limit, it does attract permanents.
- Bilyana Rest Area
- Japoonvale Rest Area
- Fred Drew Rest Area
Day 14: Innisfail to Atherton, Queensland
Drive Time: One hour and 20 minutes
After (hopefully) seeing some cassowaries by the coast, it’s time to head a bit inland to the Atherton Tablelands. This area is known for its natural beauty, including waterfalls, strangler figs and dense forests. Other than some hikes and sightseeing there isn’t a whole ton of stuff to do in this area. I would spend at least one full day sightseeing.
Hike alert: If you’re up for a enduring hike, try Mount Bartle Frere, it’s Queensland’s tallest mountain and a great adventure as either a day hike or overnight.
If you’re heading north from Innisfail into the tablelands, first head to Mungalli Falls. It’s in a loop just off the highway, and despite being on private property the owners have signs for people to walk down and enjoy the falls.
Then, there’s the waterfall loop off the highway. This includes Zillie Falls, Ellinjaa Falls and Millaa Millaa along the route. Out in the tablelands the roads are calm and small. It’s mainly farmland or other rainy green pastures. You might even feel cold in the morning and there’s far less humidity than on the coast.
Next up, check out the ancient crater at Mount Hypipamee National Park. This national park has just one road heading in with two main sightseeing options, the crater and Dinner Falls. Both two equally relaxing and beautiful spots, surrounded by the tableland’s natural beauty.
For a hike in the tablelands, check out Mount Baldy. This hike goes from Mount Baldy to Yabi Mountain or to other spots in just a few hours. The tourist information centre in Atherton should be able to provide maps to help with this hike.
Take some time to visit the quaint towns of the tablelands, such as Atherton. Or, for swimming options and more walks, check out the local crater lakes. Lake Eacham and Lake Barrine both have walks and are local swimming spots.
Lake Eacham is the most popular for swimming, locals head up there all times of the year. For wildlife there’s giant pythons in the area and a single fresh water crocodile in the lake—not dangerous and still safe to swim in.
The other crater lake, Lake Barrine isn’t as popular for swimming. It’s mainly dominated by an old teahouse by the shore and tours by boat take place. While heading down to the shore, take a left turn into a marked bush path and see two old and huge trees.
Finally, check out the Curtain Fig Tree. What remains of this tree are now only strangler figs that have taken over. It’s a beautiful sight to see what nature can do. There’s also a nice board walk that goes around the figs so visitors can see every angle without disturbing the bush life.
There is more to the Atherton Tablelands than just this, it’s a good starting point though. I found there’s a lot of driving within the tablelands to see everything (as with most of travelling in Australia). Especially with the hills to get in and out of the tablelands.
Next up, is about finishing up this road trip and heading to the touristy northern city of Cairns, finally arriving in the destination of this road trip from Brisbane.
Free and Low-Budget Campgrounds
There aren’t free campsites available to non-self-contained campers in the tablelands. As in backpackers and others travelling in campervans. Bonadio RV & Nature Park has affordable campsites for unpowered, and it has plenty of walks around the property.
And for free campsites outside of the tablelands, check out Greenpatch Reserve, the Boulders Camp Area and Babinda Rotary Park (by donation).
Day 15: Atherton to Cairns, Queensland
Drive Time: One hour and 25 minutes
This is the final day of this road trip from Brisbane to Cairns. It’s a big chunk of Australia’s east coast all in one state. Arriving to Cairns can go many different ways.
The first time I ever went to Cairns, I didn’t love it. It was overloaded with tourists, the city slept late and woke up early. There was a lot going on.
However after the COVID-19 pandemic, things changed. Without the international tourism in Australia, Cairns is more of a normal city. But indeed still a party town. What’s different now is the scale of how it parties, which of course has had to calm down.
Cairns will either be your city, or not at all. But whatever you love, Cairns will cater something for you.
A few great things Cairns can offer is craft beer, both upscale and budget restaurants and amazing international food. It’s also loaded with affordable hostels and other accommodation so it’s easy to stay a while. There’s also a heavy amount of day trips around—think the Daintree, Mossman Gorge, Port Douglas and Kuranda.
Cairns can also be relaxing with yoga studios, walks along the beach or meandering through the Cairns Botanic Gardens.