How to Go Shampoo-Free with Fine Hair

Tired of shampooing your hair everyday? Want your hair to grow faster? Or maybe, you want your hair to have some magical shine? These are just a few reasons I tried going shampoo-free with my fine hair. I’m sharing my experience with multiple shampoo-free methods, the outcomes and what to consider before attempting a new routine.

I have fine, long, dark, straight hair, which gets greasy quickly. At one point I was washing my hair daily to combat the oil. After years of getting annoyed with this process, I decided to stop the cycle, but it’s not easy.

I’m sharing these shampoo-free methods to highlight some of the pros and cons of the routine and what worked for my hair type and lifestyle.

For any shampoo-free methods, remember that your hair is unique and different from other people’s hair. Each method may have a different outcome for different people and their hair.

What is the Shampoo-Free Method?

The most basic explanation for a shampoo-free method is that it stands for no shampoo. These are alternative methods for cleansing hair and the scalp, without the use of so-called conventional shampoos and the—possibly—damaging chemicals they may contain. There’s different terms for this, shampoo-free, no shampoo, or no poo.

The shampoo-free method aims to recalibrate the scalp’s natural oil distribution and focuses on alternative washing options. To explain this movement it’s important to understand shampoo’s effect on hair, how the scalp naturally works, and how this movement plans to change this.

Some background on the movement, the “no poo” method is based on the sentiment, that as early as the 1970’s, conventional shampoos didn’t exist to the extent that they do now. Or if people used shampoo it was only once a week, or less.

The movement is as much a stand again harsh chemicals as it is to reduce the amount of shampooing. Most store-bought shampoos contains such as sulphate, among other chemicals that may damage hair with repeated use.

A problem with shampoo’s frequent use, is the scalp kind of fights back. Scalps naturally produces oil to hydrate and protect itself and the hair. This is actually called sebum. Shampoos contain abrasive chemicals, which strip the scalp’s natural oil, preventing the scalp from doing its job.

After shampooing the scalp will produce more oil to compensate for the loss. With continued shampooing, hair can be dry and often fragile.

Using conditioner helps hydrate the hair, when the natural oils can’t or don’t. But it’s still not equivalent to the scalp’s natural oils.

On top of regular use, people also use heat and other hair products for styling, which requires shampoo to remove it after. This cycle of shampooing, conditioning, and styling damages hair over time.

With the no shampoo method, people have the opportunity to try completely different method for washing their hair. Some method are made from household products.

DIY solutions include apple cider vinegar, baking soda, coconut oil and more. Others doing the no shampoo method just go for natural shampoos. Dry-shampoo is an option to feel clean and oil-free in between shampoos.

In addition to not using non-conventional shampoo, the idea is to stop washing at the same frequency. This re-trains the scalp to produce less oil and overtime reduces the need for washing with any type of scalp-cleansing-product.

Shampoo-free Methods for Fine Hair

The shampoo-free methods for fine hair doesn’t work the same as with other hair types. Some experts don’t recommend doing no shampoo for fine hair at all. As I discuss later about my outcomes with the no shampoo methods, having fine hair is why so many methods didn’t work for my hair type.

With finer hair strands, oily sebum builds up and goes down the strands easier than other hair types. The outcome to standard no shampoo methods are often more oily looking and feeling.

This is why people with thicker hair—especially curly hair—can go longer without shampooing and it isn’t as noticeable. Whereas with fine hair… a few days without washing and it’s obvious.

Just to clarify, regardless of the different methods I tried, my sebum doesn’t over produce as much as it once did. But, it hasn’t stopped producing altogether—which is good and healthy.

This scalp sebum ‘recalibration’ that a lot of people talk about isn’t as obvious as it might seem. What I found from doing the no shampoo method is that when my hair gets oily it doesn’t feel as gross as it did before.

Previously, with the sebum producing, I felt like I had to wash my hair right away. It would be itchy, dry and oily at the same time. But now my scalp feels cleaner even though I don’t wash it everyday. This could be all mental, or my scalp may feel cleaner from using less chemicals.

The most important point of trying the shampoo-free methods with fine hair, is sebum will still be produced. This is normal and actually good. Instead, hair is healthier from not stripping it away as often, and with the harsh chemicals from conventional shampoo.

Shampoo-Free and Sensitive Scalps

Sensitive scalps is a very real problem, and a good reason to try shampoo-free methods. Many blogs and other sources denote dandruff as an ailment that can be cured by the no shampoo method.

First off, know that there’s a difference from dandruff and regular dry skin. Dandruff is a condition which is hard to treat and characterized by dry, flaky, itchy skin. My dad had it so bad, it would go down to his forehead and neck. It is however normal for people to have some dry skin here and there, especially with dry weather conditions.

Throughout my time experimenting with other shampoo-free methods with fine hair, my dandruff actually got worse at times. Especially so when I had my hair in braids and didn’t brush it for a few days.

However, an influencing factor that should be considered with dandruff is where it’s from. I have dandruff genetically, and I’ve tried every possible treatment for it—even prescription strength products.

What finally got rid of my dandruff was the water only washing method (see below for my experiences). I just had to be extremely gentle with my scalp to let it take care of itself. Using a boar brush also helps with dandruff so that the oil doesn’t build up on the scalp, which in my case felt like it was causing problems.

If it hasn’t worked yet, just keep trying different methods. I struggled with dry skin since I was a child, so it’s great to finally have relief and not feel itchy all the time!

Problems with the Shampoo-Free Methods

The no shampoo method is a good alternative to avoid unnecessary chemicals and messing up your scalp’s sebum, or natural oils. But, it doesn’t come without its faults.

As with many other fads found on the internet, look out for these downfall to the no shampoo method.

DIY Alternatives

It’s always attractive to use more natural options. It’s usually better for people and the planet. And when escaping shampoo, many people use baking soda to cleanse their scalp, as an alternative.

Baking soda is a harsh chemical on its own. Other DIY household uses include for baking soda include scrubbing dirty ovens and pots. How can a product that cleans ovens and metal pots be good for cleaning your scalp? There isn’t significant scientific studies to prove this, but it can be used on occasion. Using it frequently on your scalp could be just as bad—or worse—than some abrasive chemicals in conventional shampoos.

Another problem with this is: baking soda or shampoo, you’re still stripping natural oils from your scalp. This defeats the purpose of helping provide your scalp with a happy and healthy sebum-ecosystem. If using this, try to do so in moderation.

A solution to this baking soda method is focusing your no shampooing efforts towards natural shampoo.

Natural shampoos are generally created with safe, natural alternatives to cleanse the scalp without damaging hair or the scalp. But, remember they still remove healthy scalp sebum. If the idea is to ‘train’ your scalp, don’t use these too often.

Dry Shampoo

Another chemical-related fault with shampoo-free methods is with dry shampoo. Many praise dry shampoo to cope with natural oil in between washes. The problem is, most store-bought dry shampoos also have harsh chemicals and come out of an aerosol can. Frequent use may be damaging to your scalp. I have used aerosol dry shampoos, as they’re best at distributing the product, but try to limit the use—so not on a daily basis.

Dry shampoos also soaks up oil, to give your scalp an oil-free look. This takes away the benefits of not shampooing and allowing natural oils to hydrate the scalp. Just remember, they don’t get rid of dirt and other chemicals sitting in your hair for longer periods.

A solution to store-bought dry shampoos is using different starches as a dry shampoo. One of the best organic options I’ve come by is Beauty by Earth’s dry shampoos. The company has both one made for light hair and dark hair (finally!). What I love about this company is that it was started to create natural, organic alternatives to products people use most.

For aerosol alternatives, my favourite ever is Klorane, it’s clear so it doesn’t leave the same residue as other dry shampoos do.

For DIY dry shampoo, I usually use single or a blend of different starches. Bob’s Red Mill are my go-to for starches, they use minimal packaging which is more sustainable and environmentally-friendly. Although bulk food stores are always the best.

I found tapioca starch works the best, but other common starches include corn, potato or even rice starch, among others. Also baby powder is another option, it just doesn’t work the best with darker hair. The fine and lightest ones are going to feel the best in your scalp. Some people use flours as DIY dry shampoos. However if starches are dense, flours will definitely be more dense.

My Fine Hair Shampoo-Free Journey

When I began getting oily hair as a teenager, I would wash my hair daily. And, by the end of each day my hair was already greasy again. I wasn’t sweating excessively, touching my scalp too often or anything abnormal.

However, going shampoo-free with fine hair can be very different than those with thick hair. Due to how the hair follicles respond to oils. With fine hair, there’s often more hair to get coated, making it harder to attempt shampoo-free if the hair looks and feels more oily.

I first heard about the shampoo-free, or low-shampoo methods years ago, but it wasn’t a new idea. Even as a teenager my grandma told me it was bad to wash hair more than once a week, but I just rolled my eyes.

I was attracted to low-shampoo methods because I have long, fine straight hair and a lot of it. This means it’s very time consuming to wash and dry my hair. And, despite rarely blow drying my hair or using other heated products, I always have tons of split ends. This never made sense to me, until after doing the shampoo-free methods.

Throughout the years I’ve tried many different no shampoo methods to figure out what was sustainable for my hair type and lifestyle. My current winning solution has been a natural shampoo bar a few times a week. I also use a boar brush to help distribute healthy oils and I try to have my hair down as much as I can. Some boar brushes are quite dense, which is why I chose a boar and nylon vent brush. It’s my favourite for detangling my fine easily-messy hair.

Otherwise I find the oil just sits on the scalp when my hair is tight. I try to balance different hair styles instead of having my hair one way the entire time. It’s a great reason to try shampoo-free options with fine hair.

This is a review of all the methods I tried, how they worked on my hair type and why I stopped or continued with them.

Fine Hair Review: Dry Shampoo and Baking Soda

Combating natural hair oils with dry shampoo and baking soda seemed to be the easiest and most popular option for the no poo method. That’s what I decided after combing through internet searches, anyways.

The method: was simple, use dry shampoo of some kind throughout a week period and when the dry-build-up-mess was extreme, wash hair with baking soda. I also used natural conditioner when using baking soda.

For me, this method was flawed from the beginning; it sounded too easy. I did this for just over two months until I stopped and went back to natural shampoo.

The problem with dry shampoo is that it’s terrible for dandruff. At some point I couldn’t tell if my flakes were dry shampoo or actual dandruff. And, using the dry shampoo to me felt just as gross as not shampooing. Mainly because the dirt was just sitting on my scalp instead of being washed out. Especially because I was working out lots and sweating during this time.

While the baking soda felt good to cleanse my scalp, overall my hair felt more dry and sad compared to before. I believe this was because of how abrasive the baking soda was, and the frequency in which I used it. Having fine hair, it felt deflated with this shampoo-free method, and lost the natural gloss.

Fine Hair Review: Baking Soda and Apple Cider Vinegar

Using baking soda and apple cider vinegar is another popular option for a no shampoo method. Baking soda seemed to be the easiest option, it’s cheap, can be purchased anywhere and it was ‘natural’ (whatever that means).

I was excited about apple cider vinegar because I knew it had antibacterial properties that may or may not reduce my dandruff.

The method: wash my hair with a small amount of baking soda once a week. After the baking soda I would pour undiluted apple cider vinegar on my scalp and leave it there for a few minutes before rinsing out.

I did this for a few months, until I realized it wasn’t making any difference to my scalp and its oil. My scalp was getting dryer than before—again—while my hair was still getting greasy.

I had read online my scalp would go through a “detox” and it would be very oily all the time. But, despite doing this method for months, it never got any better. My scalp would still produce the same level of engine grease at about the same rate as before. And with fine hair, this shampoo-free method wasn’t working.

Fine Hair Review: Water only Washing

The easiest sounding and (if it worked) most sustainable, shampoo-free method is washing with water only. At its most basic, washing with water only is the essence of what the no poo method is all about. I have tried this method twice and will share both experiences.

Water Only Washing August 2019: The idea of water only washing led me to think about how people lived before conventional soap existed. But friends, there’s a reason people don’t go back to those ancient times.

Aside from only washing my hair with water, I invested in a boar brush to help distribute the oils of my hair to the ends. I also tried this scritching method that I read on Just Primal Things. Once a week, I poured diluted apple cider vinegar on my scalp to help with my dandruff.

The problem with using water only to wash hair, and why it didn’t work for me was because I had so much oil. What happened is that the oil built up and stiffened my hair. Then using my boar brush, there was visible dirt in the brush. Yes, I was literally brushing oily dirt down my soon-to-be-dreads as a no poo method, feel free to laugh at me.

Something else I struggled with during this time was swimming in the ocean. The salt in my hair seemed impossible to rinse out with water only, and of course the sand. That’s right, so now it was a blend of dirty, dusty, salt water and sand that I was brushing through. This shampoo-free option was not working for my fine hair.

Throughout the week I had my hair in braids so no one could tell how greasy it really was. Greasy hair actually helps with keeping braids tight—this was the only upside to this no poo method.

For me, there was no way to fight greasy dirty hair without a detergent-like product. After the sixth week, I used a natural shampoo about five times for all the oil and dirt to come out.

Water-only Washing March 2021: I realized at the previous water only washing attempt, having hair in braids isn’t the best idea. Instead this time I brushed my hair with my boar brush everyday.

After a week the sebum was everywhere, all the way to the ends of my roots thanks to the boar brush, it was a lot different than the previous time doing this. What happens when all the hair is oily at first is that it feels pretty heavy and weighed down.

I would only rinse my hair a few times a week, or more if I was working out and getting sweaty! I still noticed my boar brush collecting some dust, but it wasn’t as much as a problem as before.

Then, finally after two and a half weeks my hair bounced back. It was still slightly oily everywhere, but it had more natural volume than ever before. It wasn’t staticky and didn’t feel weighed down anymore. And, I felt confident to venture outside with it down—the previous time I would only have it up when I went out.

What I learned about doing the water only washing method this time around is that, your hair shouldn’t be up or tucked away in braids 90 percent of the time. My entire scalp feels so much healthier after doing this method, and my dandruff has finally gone away naturally. This is something I’ve struggled with since being a child, so I’m very excited.

If you can handle this method, I definitely recommend it. Just keep in mind everyones hair is different, what only took me a few weeks may take others longer because I had already been using natural shampoo.

Natural Shampoo: The Winning Method

My biggest takeaway from first learning about the shampoo-free methods was to use less shampoo and less chemicals in my hair. Years ago I always just went for the cheapest shampoo, highly scented. When the brands came out with a ‘natural’ option, I went for that.

Eventually I felt purchasing a true natural shampoo meant supporting a company that didn’t use other harsh chemicals, that are bad for my hair and the planet. Also, many natural conventional shampoos—still have other damaging chemicals.

Either way, I starting seeking a true natural shampoo. I went through quite a few brands. One I’ve always loved is Sukin’s Natural Balance, I was able to purchase it in Canada, but it’s actually an Australian brand. Others I tried and enjoyed include: Andalou, A’kin and Acure.

Later, I shifted to more sustainable (plastic-free) options and I love Ethique’s hair care, especially the Mintasy and Heali Kiwi. But, my favourite ever bar shampoo is now Nuebar, the oily hair shampoo bar. It has a light natural scent, though scent-free options are available. I find this brand’s bars to be more solid, whereas Ethique’s bars would get a bit gooey sometimes. Meaning, Nuebar lasts longer, but still produces great suds.

Often I’ll use argan or jojoba oil in the ends of my hair for added conditioning. My favourite brand is the Ordinary for hair oils—which can also be used on skin. I also use a boar brush to distribute the oils from my scalp. I may have my hair in braids for a few days at most, but usually take them out often to brush my hair.

Aside from the boar brush, I also use a regular plastic brush. I find the boar brush flattens my hair if I’m not blow drying it and the plastic one helps to give it volume again.

Most importantly, it worked for my lifestyle and it was sustainable. With my fine, straight, long hair, it was what I felt was the only option. Fine hair is different because the oil runs down the hair follicle quicker, which is why people with fine hair often have trouble with shampoo-free methods.

Shampoo-Free Methods: Conclusion

Going shampoo-free isn’t for everyone. Some people might try certain methods, then go back to their conventional shampooing method. I’m sharing what’s worked and hasn’t worked for me based on my lifestyle and hair type.

Getting to know and understand your hair is just like understanding how your body responds to a new diet. It’s about refining a method to make your hair feel healthy and strong.

I’m busy and don’t have hours each day to spend on my hair alone. This is why it worked for me to use a natural shampoo. And, it’s the best solution for me to avoid other chemicals in conventional shampoos.

Since doing this no poo method long-term with natural shampoo (over three years), I’ve had less split ends and my hair feels more hydrated. My hair still gets an oily look, but it blends in better than pre-no poo method.

Interested in more of Gab Travelling’s lifestyle picks? Check out how to make DIY Reusable Produce and Bulk Bags and How to Live an Eco-Friendly Sustainable Van Life!