Queensland’s outback has a surprise waiting amid its dry and flat terrain, and that’s Carnarvon National Park. Located about 500 km off Queensland’s coast—from Gladstone—Carnarvon is a paradise nestled just off the Carnarvon Highway.
Depending on who you know or talk to, Carnarvon National Park is either the most talked about or most unknown national park. Due to its location, many people either don’t know about it or choose to drive past on quick trips on Australia’s east coast. I can tell you, albeit its distance, this national park is most definitely worth the trek into the outback.
Carnarvon National Park, colloquially known as Carnarvon Gorge is a national park surrounding the gorge. Most walking tracks around the area are on the lower section of the gorge. All throughout these walking tracks, the gorge’s high walls perpetuate the horizon.
After spending a few days in the park I’m sharing this guide on Carnarvon National Park. This guide for visitors contains hikes, camping and other helpful tips about the park. Read on to learn more about why this national park is so special, and why you should make it part of your trip through Queensland.
Table of Contents
Getting There
Carnarvon National Park isn’t the easiest or fastest national park to get to, but it’s also not too far away from the coast. Think of visiting the park as a journey in itself, which is a good time to enjoy. From Gladstone, it’s about a five hour drive, or 440 km. And, from Brisbane it’s about 8 hours and 720 km.
With a journey like this it’s better to break up the drive into a few days, and rest. This will make it a safer road trip. And, try not to drive at night time as there’s loads of wildlife, which—probably—doesn’t want to become roadkill.
Wildlife on the road includes kangaroos, wallabies, emus (I saw three!) and birds of all sorts. Other than wildlife, the drive there is pretty, but dry. There’s also other national parks along the way, which might be a good place to stop at for a day, such as Blackwater National Park.
If heading out to Carnarvon National Park is part of an east coast road trip, try to add it to the journey. By this I mean, think about what you may be missing on the coast if you don’t want to head back in the same direction. To prevent backtracking too much, I drove to the park from Rockhampton area to see the Capricorn Caves first. After this, I was able to head straight to Mackay after, to visit Eungella National Park.
Managing the road trip to Carnarvon is just as important as making it part of an overall road trip, if that’s what’s happening. Next learn more about the national park and helpful tips to make your visit even more pleasant.
What to Know About Carnarvon National Park
There’s a few things about Carnarvon National Park that are handy to know before planning a trip to the area. In this section of the guide, I’m sharing what I learnt about the park, including information from the local Queensland park rangers.
Cellphone Service
Over Carnarvon National Park there’s limited cellphone service and in the area heading out to the park. You may have read this about the national park already though. The truth is, there’s no cellphone service all along main walking track in the gorge. There’s spotting service in the visitor area and other surrounding areas.
But, for a strong good cellphone service connection (Telstra) head over to the area of Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge. I’m not sure if they have they own tower or other cellphone service superpowers, but it’s the go-to place for good service.
Best Time to Visit & Time to Enjoy
Because Carnarvon National Park is a gorge, when it rains in the area, that water pours into the gorge. This torrential downpour aspect makes it difficult to visit or experience the gorge at all, on the wrong season. Rangers said they have to close down the gorge if there’s been more than 75 cm of rain, so avoid the park during raining season—that’s about November-February.
As for the time to enjoy the park, I recommend at least three days. This depends on your fitness level, accommodation budget, and what you want to see or hike in the area. Look at all of the hikes and figure out what can be done each day, while accounting for time to relax afterwards. Bring plenty of food in case you plan to stay extra days, as there’s no grocery stores close by. And finally, don’t rush the experience in the park. It’s a magnificent park which is in a regional area, so it might not be possible to quickly.
Petrol
There’s is no petrol for sale publicly in the park. The closest petrol station is in Rolleston, Queensland, about 100 km away. Remember to arrive well-fuelled or with extra fuel to enjoy the trip fully. That means 200 km return (to Rolleston) along with enough fuel for driving around in the park. The only place you may be able to purchase fuel in the park is at Takarakka Bush Resort. However, the price makes it pretty inconvenient at A$50 for 20 litres.
Drones in the Park
Despite drones being legal in all national parks across Queensland, they’re not legal in Carnarvon National Park. It’s hard to find information about this online, which is why I spoke to the rangers about the subject. The ranger I spoke with explained Carnarvon National Park is actually a no-fly zone due to the local mines and sandstone walls of the gorge. Likely due to the fragile nature of the sandstone walls. However, the Australian Civil Aviation Safety Authority (CASA) has yet to share this information on any of the recommended safety apps.
The Queensland government is still working on the legal framework prohibiting drone usage in Carnarvon National Park, which is why it’s hard to find information about it online. It’s best to respect the area and keep your drone at home.
In addition to this, it’s also illegal to disturb any wildlife with a drone, such as chasing wildlife. This last reason goes for any national park and it’s important to be aware of this while in an area with lots of wildlife. Remember, even if you can’t see the wildlife they may still be there, which is why it’s important to know the area before flying a drone.
Drinking Water
There’s taps all over the visitor area, but they are clearly marked “treat before drinking.” The water passes through multiple filtration systems and is mostly safe for drinking—it’s actually some of the best tasting water around. The water comes from Carnarvon Creek before passing through filtrations, including a UV-light filter.
The rangers explained the label is because no chemicals are added to the water. Without added chemicals, they can’t legally label the taps as safe for consuming due to regulations in Australia.
Hikes
Hiking through Carnarvon National Park is one of the few ways to see inside of the gorge—the other would be by helicopter tour. All of the hikes within the gorge are accessed by the main walking track, which is 19.4 km return. This trail starts at the visitors information centre and goes all the way to Big Bend Campground.
Aside from a few short walks around the park before reaching the visitors information centre, most walks just branch off of this main trail. From my experience, I recommend taking a look at the map and deciding which hikes are worth while to you. Try to split the hikes between a few days and go from there. I did Big Bend, Boowinda Gorge, and Cathedral Cave on day one. Then, Art Gallery, Ward’s Canyon, Amphitheatre and Moss Garden on day two. Then finally, Boolimba Bluff and Rock Pool on the last day. Every spot was worth the walk and because it’s relatively flat, it’s not a difficult walk.
Take plenty of water as there’s nowhere to fill up along the tracks. Also think about good shoes for walking on sand and rocks. Bring toilet paper just in case there’s none in the bathrooms, speaking of which, there’s only two located along the trail. These are both at Moss Garden—but still on the main trail—and Big Bend campground
Below is listed every hike in Carnarvon National Park, trails are listed from shortest to longest kilometres. Recommended times and kilometres are from Queensland Parks. Keep in mind, the time given for each walk by Parks Queensland can be generous, but account of extra time of sightseeing and breaks.
Rock Pool – 400 m, 20 mins
Rock pool is the best place, rather the only place to go for a swim in the park. Despite a rather dry time to visit the park on my visit, the rock pool was full of beautiful turquoise water. The walk down to the rock pool(s) isn’t a difficult one. It’s sandy, and walking through the water is optional—as there’s rock steps through the creek.
The main rock pool is located just after the first creek crossing, then there’s a small path leading to another rock pool, after. The path for the second rock pool goes through the creek again. Both pools are characterized by huge rocks on the backdrop. The walk quoted above is from the Rock Pool car park. The same area is accessible from the visitor area, by a 3.6 km, 2 hour walk, as well.
Nature Walk – 1.5 km, 1 hour
The nature walk is the go-to spot in Carnarvon National Park to see wild palytapus. It’s also the first trail off the main walking track. Make sure to go close to sunrise or sunset for the best viewing times. The palytapus are around during other times, but it’s a bit more sporadic.
Other wildlife to see around (including near the visitors information centre) are wallabies, kangaroos, echidnas and possums! BYO red light to spot the wildlife at night, as this doesn’t disturb their night vision.
Mickey Creek Gorge – 3 km, 1.5 hour
This short walk heads along Mickey Creek, by a well-maintained track. It’s the first stop once entering Carnarvon National Park, and has parking on both sides of the road.
After the creek, the trail goes into the gorge portion of the trail, by narrow sides. This portion of the trail is less maintained and more off-track. In the area are wildlife, such as rock wallabies staying cool on hot days.
Boolimba Bluff – 6.4 km, 2-3 hours
Boolimba Bluff is the second (after Nature Trail) turn off, from the main trail heading to Big Bend. It’s also the steepest and highest short hike available in the gorge. If it’s a hot day, it’s best to do this hike in the morning. Not only does the elevation gain take you to refreshing views over the area, but the hike up is just as exciting.
From the turn off up to the bluff, the trail slowly gains elevation with longer walk ways in-between stairs. The real elevation gain is after the first benches aside the trail. There’s about 140 steps to the top, but don’t be worried. Keep up a good pace and enjoy the views of heading through rocky escarpments. I found once I was really sweating, the steep part of the trail was over.
Once on the dirt path after the rocky steps, the trail flips back towards the outside of the bush for those rewarding views. There’s two lookouts, one facing more towards the inside of Carnarvon Gorge, and the second pointing south east.
Moss Garden – 7 km, 2-3 hours
Thought Carnarvon National Park was lush and green? Visiting Moss Garden will reinvigorate this thought. Water trapped in sandstone is slowly dripping to sustain a proliferating carpet of moss and ferns here.
Even on the hottest days, Moss Garden will cool you down, next to the water fall. It’s the kind of place you’ll be expecting faeries and elves to pop out of. Near Moss Garden, but on the main walking track is the first spot to use the toilet along the trail, otherwise wait until the end at Big Bend camping area.
Amphitheater – 8.6 km, 3-4 hours
An amphitheater is generally a term to describe a man-made open-air venue for sporting, entertainment or performances. Forget the man-made aspect, the amphitheater in Carnarvon National Park will redefine how you think of one.
Starting from the trail, you’ll see a slim hole in between two huge sides of the gorge. Below the teardrop-looking hole in the rocks is a wobbly metal staircase. It’s best to walk up and down the staircase in the same direction, facing the staircase upward.
After the steps, the path follows the crack in the adjoining walls before more steps into the actual amphitheater. If you’re interested in disturbing the peace, give a shout or try singing and listen for those acoustics. Otherwise, sit and enjoy the natural beauty.
Wards Canyon – 9.2 km, 3-4 hours
Once approaching, Wards Canyon comes off as a steep climb into the gorge. Spoiler alert: it’s actually a sweet path into a canyon on the side of the gorge. Starting out by going to multiple look outs, the trail heads atop a waterfall. Just when you think the trail is about to end, it goes into Wards Canyon.
Normally, if the waterfall/river isn’t too high it’s easy to get around, but beware of slipping on wet rocks. Eventually the trail ends where the walls of the canyon open up.
Art Gallery – 10.8 km, 3-4 hours
Carnarvon’s Art Gallery is one of multiple places to see Aboriginal art in the park. It’s a collection of ochre drawings, engravings and free-hand paintings. There’s signs throughout the boardwalk describing the art and the ceremonies to create it. The art is still completely original, despite some tagging, dating back as early as the 80’s.
The reason it’s still so brightly coloured and generally fresh looking is because of its location. The sandstone wall the art was made on is hidden from the elements as the top end points out to protect it.
Cathedral Cave – 18.2 km, 5-6 hours
After the Art Gallery, there’s a long stretch of walking to Cathedral Cave. This spot is one of the best to see Aboriginal art, including the same types as Art Gallery. What’s different is at Cathedral Cave one section of the cave and art is higher so it spans in a different way, also amounting to some larger works of art due to the canvas size.
Cathedral Cave is the closest stop off of the main walking track than any other. There’s benches on the board walk and outside of the path to Cathedral Cave, making it a good place to stop for lunch.
Boowinda Gorge – 18.4 km, 5-6 hours
Just one hundred meters past Cathedral Cave is another gorge within Carnarvon Gorge—and it’s just as mesmerizing. The entrance to this walk seemed a bit confusing as first, but it’s just a dry river bed to the right of the main walking track. After going over some fallen trees, the gorge changes quickly after a few turns. Queensland Park’s describes the first kilometre of the trail as the most spectacular, and they’re not wrong.
The side of the gorge is the product of erosion, and its uniqueness is what makes it so stunning. Because the path is a dry rock bed, it’s not easy to walk fast through, so make sure you have good shoes for this area.
Big Bend camping area – 19.4 km, 7-8 hours
After all of the other steps and the final crossings across Carnarvon Creek, you’ll arrive to Big Bend camping area. This isn’t only the last stop of the track, but it’s the last available toilet spot before reaching Moss Garden again. Big Bend camping area is surrounded by towering sandstone walls leaning inwards. It makes for an amazing echo, so holla’ away!
There’s just one picnic table in the area, which is a good spot for food or some relaxing before finishing the track back to the Carnarvon Gorge visitor area.
Carnarvon Gorge Great Walk – 87 km, 6-7 days
Ready to feel completely embraced by Carnarvon Gorge’s natural beauty? This is the great walk for you. The 6-7 day walk starts at the visitors area and goes clockwise to complete a circuit. Walkers stay at various free bush campgrounds along the way.
It can be done in any amount of time, but all food must be brought in, so it’s not ideal to have to carry too much. Check out Queensland Park’s guide for this great walk, and go equipped with a topographic map, available for purchase. And of course the right equipment to navigate with the map.
Camping and Accommodation
Camping in Carnarvon National Park is regularly busy, but during the COVID-19 pandemic, it’s a whole other kind of busy. Book ahead before showing up at the park to avoid disappointment, or no place to stay.
Some people do stay far from the national park if there’s no other booking within the area, but this leads to long drives each day as the gorge is in a secluded area. Listed below is all of the camping options around the park. Campgrounds are listed based on closest proximity to the visitor’s area.
Carnarvon Gorge camping area
Before getting excited about staying in the lush green, tropical gorge of Carnarvon Gorge camping area, read about opening times first. This campground is only open during Queensland’s school holidays including Easter, June-July and September-October. However, due to COVID-19, the campground has not been open at all, during these times.
Book another campsite, and don’t attempt to free camp or sleep in your vehicle in any of the parking lots in the park. They are all patrolled by Queensland Parks rangers, even if it may seem like no one is around. You risk a A$133 fine if found to be doing this. Queensland Park’s camping fees start are A$6.75 per adult, per night.
Big Bend camping area (walk-in only)
If you’re up for a walk (9.7 km, one-way) Big Bend camping area is accessible from the main gorge walking track only. It’s a good opportunity to spend a single or multiple nights in the national park without the distractions of vehicles or the luxury of flushing toilets. However the hybrid toilet at the campsite is heaps better than any other pit toilet! Carnarvon Creek, which surrounds the campground brings an extra amount of relaxation to the experience there.
Taking the walk out to Big Bend, with the right preparation can be a good way to break up the entire walking track through the gorge and all the stops along the way (see above for all walking tracks). Camping fees are A$6.75 per adult, per night and subject to capacity limits, book online.
Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge
If you’re looking for a quiet and beautiful spot to lodge, Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge may have you covered. It’s currently closed due to the pandemic but plans to reopen in 2020. This is also the best spot to find good cellphone service closest to the visitor area, as there’s no cellphone service further out.
This lodge has safari-style cabins, but no camping options. There’s ensuite bathrooms, shady verandahs, heating and cooling, bar fridges and more. There’s also a restaurant on property open from March to October—although check the company’s site for more details on opening times during COVID-19.
Takarakka Bush Resort
If you even remotely look out the window on the way to Carnarvon National Park, then it’s impossible you haven’t heard of Takarakka. They have about a sign each kilometre along the road to the park. This is the only campground aside from Carnarvon Gorge camping area which has a shower available to guests. Takarakka is available to those in caravans as well as tent camping, and all those in-between the two. They also have other accommodations, including studios, cottages, cabins and ‘glamping’ tents.
Takarakka is also the only spot for fuel, but it’s going to set you back A$50 for 20 litres, so maybe don’t rely on this. The fuel is supposed to be for guests staying at the resort only, but they may be willing to help those in an emergency situation. The resort also has wifi, but whether it’s working or not seems to be inconsistent. Camping starts at A$30 a night for unpowered and A$35 a night for powered.
Sandstone Park
Sandstone Park is available to self-sufficient campers only, meaning recreation vehicles of all sorts and tents. But there’s no cabins available, so you must have all the camping gear. All sites are unpowered and have 360-degree views over the surrounding area. Available to guests are toilets, potable water, a dump point and kennels for pets.
It’s the only pet-friendly campground close to the national park. Because pets aren’t allowed in the national park, guests can leave their pets in the kennels for a daily-rate. Campsite prices start at A$28 per night for two people, additional adults are A$12.
Interested in more content from Queensland’s national parks? Check out this guide to choosing a Whitsunday Islands tour, Springbrook National Park and Cape Hillsborough National Park.
